Colección 4 Varietales Dulce de Invierno
The Colección wines from Dinastia Vivanco are limited-production wines that capture the essence of traditional Rioja grape varieties and their cultivation in extraordinary terroirs. The personality of each wine is distinguished on the label by an original piece of art from the family’s collection on display at the museum.
A late harvest blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, and Mazuelo, yields are extremely low. Intense aromas of crystallized fruit, dried peaches, orange marmalade, and quince jelly are framed by delicate floral and cocoa notes. The sweetness is balanced by fresh acidity. Each varietal is vinified separately in large French oak vats, then aged 12 months on the lees in French oak barrels.
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2015
Wine Advocate - 91+
The tradition in the early 20th century was to produce some sweet wines from late-harvested or dried grapes, sometimes the “supurados” from red grapes, which this one is not. The sweet wine category was allowed in 2009, but Rafael Vivanco had been experimenting with botrytis wines even before. The 2015 4 Varietales Dulce de Invierno is a sweet wine from late-harvested grapes, 50% Tempranillo, 20% each Garnacha and Graciano and 10% Mazuelo, aged in barrel. The vineyards close to the winery developed botrytis, which is quite evident in the wine and sometimes adds more complexity than the wines produced from raisined, clean grapes. The grapes are usually harvested around Christmas. The nose is quite captivating, with clear notes of the botrytis. It has 110 grams of residual sugar but does not show very sweet, and it feels quite balanced. It somehow reminded me of a Sauternes. There will be no 2012, as they lost all the grapes they had saved to produce it. 4,050 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2017.
2011
Wine Advocate - 91
The 2011 4 Varietales Dulce de Invierno must be one of the first commercially produced sweet reds in Rioja, as the appellation has only received approval for them from the Government in 2012. It’s a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 20% Graciano, 20% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo from a vineyard close to the Ebro River, which developed botrytis. The different varieties were picked separately late in the winter; the grapes had shriveled so yields were minuscule. The wine aged for one year in barrel before being bottled. It’s a true rarity. This is really rose-colored with aromas of dried apricots, honey and quince marmalade. The palate is dense, sweet but not cloying (it has 15% and 109 grams of sugar), with some flavors that remind me of botrytized wines. This is a unique wine, hard to guess how it’s going to evolve, but I’d opt for drinking it on its young side. Drink 2014-2016.
2010
Wine Enthusiast - 87 pts
This unique Rioja dessert wine can’t be judge against anything but itself. It’s rusty in color, with aromas of horsehide and exotic fruits. The flavor profile starts with brine and ends with more familiar caramel and toffee. [The] sweet, syrupy finish is colorful. this is a breed unto its own. Drink now.
